• How to Date an M1 Garand: Serial Number Ranges, Barrel Dates, and What “Correct” Means

    An M1 Garand’s serial number dates the receiver and nothing else. Read the maker and serial from the receiver heel, match the serial against the published production ranges to get a year, then read the barrel date separately. On a rifle that was never rebuilt the two sit within the same production window. On most…

  • How to Identify a CZ 75 Pre-B

    A Pre-B is a CZ 75 built before the firing pin block was added to the slide. The quickest test is to look inside the slide for the plunger that block requires, but from the outside the usual tells are a rounded trigger guard, a spur hammer, and on the earliest guns frame rails that…

  • Luger P08 Markings Explained: Chamber Dates, Toggle Codes, Proof and Acceptance Stamps

    Three marks place almost any Luger. The stamp over the chamber gives the year, the marking on the centre toggle link gives the maker, and the serial number on the front of the frame ties the whole pistol together. Everything else on the gun — eagles, crowns, letters, small two-digit numbers — is a proof,…

  • Is there a fixed-price alternative to GunBroker for surplus and collectible firearms?

    Yes. Old Steel Arsenal sells surplus and collectible firearms at a fixed price. There is no bidding, no proxy bid to set, and no auction clock. The price on the listing is the price you pay, and the gun ships insured to your FFL. You are trading the chance of a bargain for a number…

  • How to Identify a Mosin-Nagant: Tula vs Izhevsk Arsenal Marks, Date Stamps, and Hex vs Round Receivers

    Almost every Mosin-Nagant answers three questions on one small patch of steel: who built it, when, and what has happened to it since. The factory logo and the year are stamped together on the barrel shank, just ahead of the receiver. A five-pointed star with an arrow inside it is Tula. An arrow inside a…

  • SIG P228 vs P226: How to Tell Them Apart, and How to Read West German Date Codes

    The P228 is the compact one. Set the two side by side and the P228 has a visibly shorter slide and barrel, a shorter grip frame, and a 13-round magazine against the P226’s 15. Both are the same double-action SIG Sauer design in 9x19mm, and West German examples of either carry a two-letter date code…

  • K98k Mauser Rifles for Sale: A Buyer’s Guide

    Journal · Collector’s Guide K98k Mauser Buyer’s Guide — German, Czech, Yugo & G33/40 The K98k is the rifle of the Wehrmacht — the Mauser 98 action at its peak, chambered in 8mm, the benchmark every other twentieth-century bolt gun is measured against. But “a K98k” runs a wide range: a matching-numbers Mauser Oberndorf, a…

  • Luger P08 Pistols for Sale: A Buyer’s Guide

    Journal · Collector’s Guide Luger P08 Buyer’s Guide — 9mm, .30 Luger, Artillery & Swiss The Luger is the most recognizable pistol of the twentieth century — that toggle action, the raked grip, the unmistakable silhouette of two world wars. But “a Luger” covers enormous ground: German military 9mm, .30-caliber commercial and export guns, the…

  • SKS Rifles for Sale: A Buyer’s Guide

    Journal · Collector’s Guide SKS Rifles Buyer’s Guide — Type 56, Soviet & Yugo The SKS is the rifle caught between two legends — chambered in the same 7.62×39 as the AK that replaced it, but built like the Mosin it retired. Semi-automatic, with a fixed ten-round magazine and a folding bayonet, it was produced…

  • Finnish & Russian Mosin-Nagant Rifles: A Buyer’s Guide

    Journal · Collector’s Guide Finnish & Russian Mosin-Nagant rifles buyer’s guide The Mosin-Nagant is a Russian bolt-action family adopted in 1891 and chambered for the rimmed 7.62×54R cartridge. The useful buyer question is almost always the same: who built or rebuilt this example? Finnish rebuild vs Soviet mass production changes what you should expect from…